September 28, 2011

Tunisian Crochet Mario Pillow


MATERIALS
•Tunisian Crochet hook size 4.5mm
•DK weight yarn
•Tapestry needle
•Fiberfill
•Measuring tape


* First Tunisian Crochet Project *
  Thanks to Another Kay Jones for inspiring this project. I had already made my son a Mario blanket and thought this will go great with it. Plus I let my son pick out the characters he wanted, so he's going to love it when it's done. :) I'm going to be making him another pillow but with different Mario characters so he can have two.
  I made the charts on Microsoft Excel except for Goomba, I copied that one from Another Kay Jones and the others from doing a Google search and making them into 8-bit graphs. If you want to use different characters, there are plenty to be found on the web by searching for 8-bit Mario characters or anything along those lines.
  When working from these graphs you gotta keep in mind that one square equals one stitch, the amount of stitches you need on your hook needs to be one more than the amount of squares you need.
Ex: On the small graphs theirs 32 so I need to chain 33 stitches.
  Since I don’t know how to add Microsoft Excel files on here, I have just put the images up. If you would like me to e-mail you the Excel files, feel free to contact me. (Links on how to contact me are on the upper left hand side).
  To save on sewing (which I’m not great at), I made the character squares two at a time, so I crocheted the Goomba and Boo as one piece, with the color change half way, then I did the Blooper and Bomb-Omb as one piece. Then whip stitch the two pieces together. I use whip stitch when sewing the whole pillow together.

A site and videos on how to Tunisian Crochet
-An Introduction to Tunisian Crochet; it has images to show you how to while your reading. Great site, this is the one I use to learn.
-If your more of a video person rather than reading then this video is great for you.
-To bind off your work watch this video.
-For color changes watch this video.

Tips
-On the basics tutorial video, it says for the last stitch of the forward pass, put the hook through the two end stitches. Cause if you don't and when its time to sew them together the edges are gonna look holey. Just in case this happens to you. Simply use the same color thread and sew it so it wont look so obvious.
-On the color changes, don’t pull the threads too tight. If you’re doing a square with a lot of color changes start a new yarn thread cause if you keep pulling them the square its gonna get smaller as you continue making it. (This happen to me with the first square)
-Measure! Measure! Measure! You don't want your square to look uneven.

8-bit Graphs
  Go ahead and use the graphs if you want these characters. :)

Boo 32x32
Bomb-Omb 32x32
Blooper 32x32
Super Mushroom 64x64






















- Janet Carrillo

September 27, 2011

Stitch Markers

  These stitch markers are a fun alternative to plain old stitch markers. They are a fun project to add some fun to your project or as a gift for a crocheter/knitter you know. Like jewelry for your crocheting/knitting! =) Plus this isn’t too difficult or time consuming.

Materials
•Leverback Earrings (crochet) or Split Rings (knitting)
•Head Pins (2 inches in length)
•An assortment of Beads
•Round-nosed Pliers
•Wire Cutters
  I went to this store where they sell only beads and all the accessories needed to make bracelets, necklaces, earrings, keychains, etc. I have past by this store several times before when I gone to ModaTelas (where I buy yarn) but never when in. Today I check it out and WOW! they have a HUGE selection of beads. While I was browsing, I decide to buy some materials to make stitch markers.
  Only cost me $85MXN ($6.90USD) for all the materials you see in the first image. I made 22 fabulous stitch markers and I still have enough materials to make at least another 15. I love the way they turn out. Plus it's cheaper than eBay or Etsy, LOVE it. :)
Stitch markers for crochet
Stitch markers for knitting
Have a wonderful day and see you next time. :)
- Janet Carrillo

September 20, 2011

Granny Square Raccoon Mario blanket

My son loves Mario and I wanted to make this HUGE surprise for him.

Size
Approx. 62" x 59" (5.17ft. x 4.92ft.)

Materials
•4.5mm crochet hook (to crochet border)
•5.0mm crochet hook (to crochet squares)
•315yds worsted Red yarn
•892yds worsted Black yarn
•429yds worsted Tan yarn
•1370yds worsted Royal Blue yarn
•Tapestry needle

   I talk about this blanket in my introduction post but I wanted to go into a little more detail about it.
   This was my 8th crochet project I made; the granny square Raccoon Mario blanket. It was inspired by this Mario bedspread I seen on Ravelry but it was the old Mario (the one from the very first game). Even though Russ McAllister did an amazing job, I wanted a different Mario image to work on. After searching for days I found an image of the raccoon Mario that I like better and started working on it.
   I made this back in February '11 and finish in May '11. It took me quite awhile to finish since I was getting annoy of making granny squares. I made some Mario Bros. amigurumis in between. Even though, it got annoying of making approximately 670some squares the end result was amazing. Seeing my son's face light up of joy when I show him the blanket was priceless. :)
   The squares I made them 2"x2". Since it was my first time doing granny squares I had to search how to make granny squares on YouTube. Here's the video I use to learn; link. But if I would of known about Tunisian crochet then, I would of most definitely made it like that. Just three weeks ago, I learn about Tunisian crochet. *giggles*
Here's the 8-bit image I use to make the blanket. :)
   - Janet Carrillo

September 17, 2011

Whomp Plushie

By JC Designs


SIZE
Approx size: Height 7.5"

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 3mm
*DK weight yarn: Gray (213yds), Black (2yds)
*Felt in small amounts: black, white & red
*Yarn needle
*Sewing needle
*Gray thread
*Fiberfill
*Pinto Beans or any other type of bean


PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.


BODY (gray)
  Row 1: ch 30, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and hdc in each ch across , ch1, turn (29)
  Row 2-31: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 32: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 33-35: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 36: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 37-67: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 68: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 69-71: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 72: Place the two ends together. We’re going to slip stitch the two ends together but on the back piece where going to slip stitch into the front loops only. Slit stitch all the way across.
F/O, secure and weave in ends.


Image 1: Closing the two ends of the body together.

SIDES for the body to close it (gray) make 2
  Row 1: ch 6, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and hdc in each ch across , ch1, turn (5)
  Row 2-31: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (5)
F/O, secure and weave in ends.


Image 2: You want to sew the sides to the body with matching thread or use the whip stitch. (I use matching thread).

HAND/ARM (gray) make 2
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5-11: sc in each sc across (24)
  Rnd 12: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (18)
  Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (12)
  Rnd 14: dec over next 2sc around (6)
At this point you will want to stuff the hand moderately firm.
  Rnd 15-20: sc in each sc across (6)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. No need to close the opening.


FEET (gray) make 2
[Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.]

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4)
  Rnd 2: ch 1, 3sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12)
  Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, *3sc next sc, sc in next 2sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21)
  Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc, *3sc  next sc, sc in next 4sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28)
  Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join. sc in next 2 sc. *3sc next sc, sc in next 6sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (36)
  Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3sc, *3sc next sc, sc in next 8sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)
  Rnd 7: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(44)
  Rnd 8: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc 5times, sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc 5times, sc in next 5sc, sl st to the first sc of round. (33)
  Rnd 9: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(33)
  Rnd 10: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in next 4sc, dec over the next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, dec over next 3sc, sc in next 3, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 3sc, dec over the next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, dec over next 3sc, sc in next 4, sl st to the first sc of round (23)
  Rnd 11-12: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(33)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. No need to close the opening. Fill completely with just beans.



ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  See picture for placement for arm/hand and feet. Eyes, mouth, tongue, teeth are constructed from felt. Sew them in place or glue them.

  I didn’t put no instructions on how to make the crease for the mouth or eyes cause your cutouts might be slightly bigger or smaller than mine. But basically all you need to do is chain several chains, measure your chains to see if it’s a perfect size if not add more or take some off some, then sc in each ch across just once and pin them in place and sew them with matching thread.
  With black yarn, chain stitch stripes on Whomp’s back. You can either make it look like mine or you can change it up a little. Then you want place the band aids (constructed from yellow felt) in a X shape. You can either sew them or glue them in place.
Hope you enjoy your new plushie.
- Janet Carrillo

Whomp and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (August 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Cheep-Cheep Plushie

By JC Designs


SIZE
Apprx. Height 5” and width from the widest point 6”

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Orange (57g), White (15g), Yellow (12g) and Beige (4g)
*Felt in small amounts: Black & White
*Yarn needle
*Fiberfill

PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

BODY (starting with orange)
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 19sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 10sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 19 sc (48)
  Rnd 10: *sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc, *sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 2times (54)
  Rnd 11-21: sc in next 21sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 11sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 22sc (54)
  Rnd 22: *sc in next 7sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc, *sc in next 7sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times (48)
  Rnd 23: sc in next 19sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 10sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 19sc (48)
  Rnd 24: *sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc, *sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times (42)
  Rnd 25: *sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange dec over next 2sc, *sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times (36)
  Rnd 26: *sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white, sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange dec over next 2sc, sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc (31)
  Rnd 27: *sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white dec over next 2sc, sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, in last sc change to orange *sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in last sc (25)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 28: sc in next 11sc, in last sc change to white dec over next 2sc, sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 9sc (23)
  Rnd 29: sc in next 11sc, in last sc change to white dec over all 3 white stitches, in last sc change to orange sc in next 9sc (21)
See image 1
  Rnd 30: *sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 5times sc in last sc (16)
  Rnd 31: *sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 5times, sc in last sc (11)
  Rnd 32: *dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 5timessc in last sc (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the body nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

Image 1: Decreasing over all 3 white stitches.

Image 2: Fin.



FIN (yellow)
  Rnd 1: ch 8, skip 1st ch, *sc in next st, ch 2* repeat from * to * 4times, turn
  Rnd 2: *sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc* repeat in each ch2 loops, sl st in the end
F/O, weave in ends.




Image 4: Putting together hair pieces.
HAIR make 2 (yellow)
  Rnd 1: ch 11, skip 1st ch,*2sc in next ch* repeat from * to * all the way around, ch3, turn (20)
  Rnd 2: tr in next 4sc, dc in next 4sc, hdc in next 4sc, sc in next 8sc (20)
F/O, weave in ends.

On one of the hair pieces. The top part only & back loops only.
  Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc in next 10 sts, sc in next 10sts, ch1 turn (20)
  Rnd 2: Put together both of the hair piece and sl st on back loops only on top part and continue on to the side. F/O, weave in ends. Leave the bottom part open. sl st the other side. F/O, weave in ends. Stuff lightly.

MOUTH (beige)
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: *sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 2times (16)
  Rnd 4: back loops only for this round *sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 2times (18)
  Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18)
Image 5: How to form the mouth.

  ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  As I have show you in the previous pictures. Place fin on the back just like shown in image 2.
  Hair goes right on the middle of the top part. Align it right on the middle of the eyes.
  Eyes are constructed from felt. See pictures for guidance on how to get your eyes to look like.
  Mouth see image 5 for placement.
  The fins that go on the side of Cheep-Cheep, I sketch them out first before drawing them in the felt.

Hope you enjoy your new plushie.
- Janet Carrillo

Cheep-Cheep and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (August 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Blooper Plushie

By JC Designs


SIZE
Apprx. Height 10” and width from the widest point 4”

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4mm
*Worsted weight yarn: White (apprx. 55g)
*Felt in small amounts: Black & White
*Yarn needle
*Fiberfill


PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.



BODY (using white)
  Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (14)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (16)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18)
  Rnd 10: sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (20)
  Rnd 11: sc in each sc around (20)
  Rnd 12: sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc around (22)
  Rnd 13: sc in each sc around (22)
  Rnd 14: sc in next 10sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (24)
  Rnd 16: sc in next 11sc, 2sc in next sc around (26)
  Rnd 17: *sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 5times, sc in last sc (31)
  Rnd 18: *sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 5times, sc in last sc (36)
  Rnd 19: *sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 5times, sc in last sc (41)
  Rnd 20-34: sc in each sc around (41)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along. Do not finish off.


1st TENTACLE (using white)
  Row 1: sc in next 7sc, ch3, sl st to join to the first sc of this row, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 2: sc in each of the 3chs of the previous row, sc in next 7sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 3-9: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, ch1, turn (10)
Begin stuffing the tentacle.
  Row 10: sc in next sc, *dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 3 more times, sc in next sc, sl st to join (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


2nd TENTACLE (using white)
Begin in the next st after the 7th sc of the first tentacle.
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 6sc, ch3, sc in next 7sc across, in the base of the 1st tentacle dec over next 2sc 3times, sl st to join, ch1 turn (19)
See image 1
  Row 2: dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 5sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (15)
  Row 3-10: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, ch1, turn (15)
  Row 11: *sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 3times, sc in last sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around sl st to join, ch1, turn (8)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.
  Row 13: dec over next 2sc around, sl st to join (4)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

Image 1
3rd TENTACLE (using white)
Begin in the next st after the 6th sc of the second tentacle.
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 6sc, ch3, sc in next 7sc across, in the base of the 2nd tentacle dec over next 2sc 3times, sl st to join, ch1 turn (19)
See image 1
  Row 2: dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 6sc,  dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 5sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (15)
  Row 3-10: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, ch1, turn (15)
  Row 11: *sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 3times, sc in last sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around sl st to join, ch1, turn (8)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.
  Row 13: dec over next 2sc around, sl st to join (4)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


4th TENTACLE(using white)
Begin in the next st after the 6th sc of the third tentacle.
  Row 1: sc in next 7sc, in the base of the 3rd tentacle dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next sc, sl st to join, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 2-9: sc in each sc around, sl st to join, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 10: sc in next sc, *dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 3 more times, sc in next sc, sl st to join (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


FIN (using white)
Pick up st between the 14 and 15 round
See image 2
  Row 1: ch1, sc in next 15sts , in the tip 3sc in next st, sc in next 15sts, ch2, turn (33)
see image 3
  Row 2: dc in next 5sc, hdc in next 6sc, sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, hdc in next 6sc, dc in next 5sc, ch1 (35)
  Row 3:hdc in next 5, sc in next 25, hdc in next 5 (35)
F/O. Weave in ends.


Image 2
Image 3

TENTACLES make 2 (using white)
These tentacles are the ones that go on the side of the body.
  Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 3sc (10)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 2sc (8)
  Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around (8)
Stuff firmly the tentacle.
  Rnd 12: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the tentacle nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.



ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  The only thing to pin and sew are the tentacles that go on the side.
  Eyes are constructed from felt. See pictures for guidance on how to get your eyes to look like.



Hope you enjoy your new plushie.
- Janet Carrillo

Blooper and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (July 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

September 16, 2011

Wiggler Plushie

By JC Designs


SIZE
Approx. length 12" & height 4.5" (using hook and yarn listed)

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4mm
*Worsted weight yarn: yellow (60g), fuchsia, mango and brown
*Felt in small amounts: black, white, yellow, green, light brown and light orange
*Yarn needle
*Fiberfill

PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

BODY (using yellow)
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)
  Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
  Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
  Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
  Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (18)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 19: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 20-25: sc in each sc around (36)
  Rnd 26: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
  Rnd 27: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
  Rnd 28: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
  Rnd 29: sc in each sc around (18)
Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 30: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 31: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 32: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 33-38: sc in each sc around (36)
  Rnd 39: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
  Rnd 40: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
  Rnd 41: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
  Rnd 42: sc in each sc around (18)
Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 43: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 44: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 45: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 46-52: sc in each sc around (36)
  Rnd 53: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
  Rnd 54: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
  Rnd 55: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
  Rnd 56: sc in each sc around (18)
Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 57: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 58: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 59: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 60-65: sc in each sc around (36)
  Rnd 66: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
  Rnd 67: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
  Rnd 68: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
  Rnd 69: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
  Rnd 70: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the body nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

NOSE (using brown)
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next 2sc around (12)
  Rnd 4-5: sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (8)
F/O  weave in tail. Stuff lightly and shape.

CHEEKS make 2 (using yellow)
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (16)
  Rnd 4: sc in next sc around (16)
F/O  weave in tail. Stuff lightly.

SHOES /LEG make 8 (starting with mango)
  Rnd 1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next 2sc (9)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2hdc in next 3sc, sc in next 5sc (12)
In last sc change to Fuchsia.
  Rnd 4: (working in back loops only for this roundng in back loops only for this round) sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 5: sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 4sc (10)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc twice, sc in next 3sc (8)
  Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
F/O fuchsia. Weave in ends.
  Rnd 9: Attach mango yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches.
Sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 10-13: Sc in next sc around (8)
F/O weave in ends. Stuff shoes/legs moderately firm.

ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  Nose is sewn a little lower from the centered of the face.
  Place cheeks on the side of the nose giving it a small little gap in between the nose and cheek.  Remember to stuff lightly, to give it a little bump.
  Eyes are constructed from felt. Make the eyes oval shape in black with a small white circle on top. See pictures.
  Shoes/legs are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown in pictures. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the shoes/legs look.
  With a light orange felt make small circles and with a light brown make bigger circles than the light orange ones. I use big and small buttons to trace on the felt to get a perfect circle. Place them over the body as you please.
  Make a flower with white, yellow and green felt to be place on top of the head. See picture. A little tip I glue two pieces of white felt together to get the flower a little stiffer. Also did the same with the stem. Then I glue in on top of the face right on the center of the eyes and also sew it.
Hope you enjoy your new plushie.
- Janet Carrillo

Wiggler and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (July 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

September 15, 2011

Introduction

I want to start off by introducing myself.
  Hi, my name is Janet. I'm in my mid 20's. I was raised in San Diego, Ca. For the past 6 years I been living in Tijuana Baja California México. I grown to like living here. They're still things that bug me about Tijuana like the fact that people walk on the street when there's sidewalks. C'mon people use them.
This is my house, where I live with my boyfriend and son. :)
  I been with my boyfriend for 6 years and we have an adorable little boy name Joshua Isaiah whose 4 yrs old. I been a stay at home wife/mom for years. At times it gets boring so I needed a hobby and I’m glad I learn to crochet. :) I taught myself to crochet by watching videos on YouTube by searching basics to crochet and reading online from different sites.
  It all started cause I had seen several young women wearing slouchy berets and I couldn’t find them anywhere to purchased one. So I thought to myself I’m a fast learner if I could only find a pattern online I can teach myself how to make it. So I did. :) Now, I love crocheting.
  I made myself a slouchy beret and 2 handbag. But what I enjoy the most is making stuff for my son. He's a huge Mario Bros. fan and I have made him a few amigurumis of the characters from the Mario series and a Raccoon Mario granny square blanket. After crocheting for 6 months, I was able to create my own amigurumi; Wiggler. I was so proud of myself. :) I have also design Cheep-Cheep, Blooper and Whomp amigurumis.
All of my son's stuff that I have crocheted for him.

All these amigurumis I got from various designers but 4 of those (Wiggler, Cheep-Cheep, Blooper and Whomp) are my own designs.




Have a wonderful day. See you next time. :)